Thank you, Beauty Independent for including my perspective in "Stagnation Or Evolution?”
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Stagnation Or Evolution?: The Fierce Debate Over Beauty’s Sputtering Ingredient Innovation
Shannaz Schopfer, CEO, The Beauty Architects.
The conversation around ingredient innovation in beauty is an important one, and I agree with Akshay Talati and Maya Sarin that we are in an era of refinement rather than radical reinvention. However, I wouldn’t characterize this as stagnation, it’s a shift in focus.
Rather than a constant search for the “next big ingredient,” the industry is prioritizing deeper research, better bioavailability and smarter formulations that enhance efficacy and sustainability.
Several factors contribute to this evolution. First, regulatory scrutiny is intensifying globally, particularly in the U.S. and EU, making it more challenging to introduce entirely new, untested compounds. Second, consumers are more informed and skeptical, demanding proof of performance and safety over novelty. Third, supply chain constraints and sustainability concerns are pushing brands to rethink how we source, manufacture and optimize ingredients.
That said, there are promising frontiers in ingredient science that could drive genuine breakthroughs:
1. Regenerative Bioactives—Inspired by longevity research, ingredients like peptides derived from regenerative medicine and epigenetic science are advancing how we address skin aging at a cellular level. Look at exosome technology and bioengineered growth factors, they have the potential to revolutionize repair and rejuvenation.
2. Skin Longevity And Senotherapeutics—With the rise of the longevity movement, we’re seeing ingredients targeting cellular senescence such as senolytics and NAD+ precursors being explored for their ability to prolong skin health rather than just treating surface signs of aging.
3. AI-Driven Ingredient Optimization—Artificial intelligence is transforming how we identify, test and formulate ingredients. By analyzing massive datasets, AI helps refine ingredient combinations for peak efficacy, stability and personalization, leading to more effective, tailored skincare.
4. Microbiome-Modulating Compounds—While microbiome beauty has been a buzzword, new postbiotic and quorum-sensing technologies are moving beyond prebiotics and probiotics, targeting the skin’s microbial communication to enhance barrier function and immune response.
5. Biotech-Derived Ingredients—Lab-grown collagen, fermented antioxidants and precision fermentation-derived actives are replacing traditional sources, providing greater sustainability without compromising efficacy.
The industry isn’t stagnant, it’s maturing. The future belongs to those who can bridge scientific advancements with real consumer benefits, creating products that aren’t just trendy but truly transformative.